BUENOS AIRES

Indigenous Peoples of Argentina

A number of indigenous groups sparsely populated the area now known as Argentina before its colonization by Europeans in the early 1500s. The Diaguita populated the southeast part of the country, and the Guaraní peoples lived in the east. The Quechua peoples lived in the northern regions, and the Tehuelches (from which the Mapuche tribe originates) inhabited Patagonia. The native populations of the south primarily hunted and fished, but the peoples populating the northern regions developed an advanced material society based on agriculture.

Arrival of the Spanish

Amerigo Vespucci’s voyage to the new world in 1502 brought some of the earliest Europeans to the region via Peru, since Lima was the capital of Spain’s Viceroyalty in America. Modern day Argentina began as a subordinate of this Viceroyalty, although the search for a new maritime route to Asia and the East Indies led to the voyage of Juan Díaz de Solís to the Rio de la Plata in 1516. Other explorers followed, and in 1536, the small settlement of Buenos Aires was created. In response to their lands being occupied by settlers, native populations battled the Europeans for control of the area, leading to an abandonment of Buenos Aires and the creation of Asunción as the new lead city of the Rio de la Plata region. However, the settlers eventually re-grouped, and in 1580, Buenos Aires was re-founded. Continued success in defending themselves against the attacks of native populations led to the settlers securing the territories that ultimately became semi-independent underneath the Viceroyalty of Peru.

The natural ports on the Rio de la Plata could not be exploited because all business and communication was to be conducted via the Viceroyalty’s capital in Lima, hampering commerce originating from the area. By 1726, Buenos Aires’ population was still only 2,200, and smuggling goods from the region became an accepted form of doing business.

A New Capital

Worries about the defense of the areas south of Peru led to the formation of the Río de la Plata Viceroyalty in 1776, constituted of modern day Argentina, Bolivia, Paraguay and Uruguay. Buenos Aires was declared the capital of the new Viceroyalty, increasing the status of the region, and paving the way for its economic growth.

Buenos Aires became a flourishing port. The economy grew as a result of the legitimate export of precious metals and leather, making Buenos Aires an attractive place for a land grab. In 1806 and 1807, the British attempted to invade Buenos Aires. After the Spanish fled, colonist militias held off the British invaders, further boosting the confidence of the settlers.

Independence

The Viceroyalty did not stay together for long due to developments in Spain, internal struggles among the regions it loosely held together, and the liberal ideas brought to the region from the French Revolution and the American Revolutionary War. In 1810, following an open town meeting, Buenos Aires set up an autonomous local government, a junta, and invited the surrounding provinces to join. A formal declaration of independence was delayed given differing opinions of the many factions that made up the region at the time, and in 1811, Paraguay went ahead and declared its independence. The region claimed independence from Spain in 1816, and Bolivia and Uruguay subsequently declared independence in 1825 and 1828 respectively. Spain fought unsuccessfully to keep its claim on Argentina, and was finally defeated by the Argentines in 1824. The United Kingdom formally recognized Argentina’s independence in 1825 and began an important commercial relationship leading to significant British foreign investment in the country.

Argentina’s early history as a nation was dominated by disagreement between various factions on how the country was to be ruled. The Unitarians wanted to unify the country, while the Federalists resented the oligarchy of Buenos Aires and had no intention of being dominated by them. The period following Argentina’s declaration of independence was an almost permanent state of civil war.

Argentina’s First Dictator

Juan Manuel de Rosas came to power during this time. He came from a noble Spanish family, owning a vast array of ranches throughout the country. In the early years of independence, he gained a reputation as a leader of irregular militia. In 1829, he was elected as the governor of Buenos Aires, and ruled the country between 1829 and 1852 with a brutally repressive conservative regime thanks in part to the paramilitary force he created called “La Mazorca.” His nationalistic policies and ultimate failure to create a federal constitution lead to him being toppled by another Federalist and one of his provincial governors, José de Urquiza, with support from Uruguay and Brazil. Argentina’s federal constitution was promulgated in 1853.

During this period, Argentina’s culture and population were heavily shaped by Europe, as immigrants from Europe, primarily Spain and Italy, provided the majority of newcomers to Argentina from the mid 1800s through 1930. More than three million people, including French, Germans, Poles, Turks and Russian Jews immigrated to Argentina from Europe from 1860 through 1940.

Economic Growth and Political Instability

The country experienced rapid economic growth in the late 1800s thanks to an infusion of foreign capital, new immigrants, and successful exploitation of Argentina’s abundant natural and agricultural resources. At one point, Argentina was one of the 10 richest countries in the world. The vast wealth of the country was not widespread; the engine of the economy, the fertile regions of the pampas were divided into estancias of hundreds of thousands of acres each, owned by a select group of fewer than 300 families. The creation of the Argentine Rural Society in 1866 and the election of Julio de Rocca in 1880 created a situation where political power remained within a small circle of friends and relations within the Rural Society for three decades.

Economic inequality helped foster the development of the Socialist and Radical parties in the 1890s, which campaigned vociferously against the corrupt governments of the time.

By the early 1900s, the ruling group reluctantly allowed for electoral reform, given the permanent state of political unrest in the country at the time. Despite the reforms, in 1916, a leader of the Radicals was elected as President, in the country’s first free election in history. The Radical party led the country for 14 years, promising reforms they ultimately could not deliver, and alarming the ruling class that was closely aligned with the military. The stage was set for tension between conservative and populist sectors of the population for the next 60 years.

The Dirty War and The return to democracy

Military dictatorship ruled the country with an iron fist from 1976 to 1983. General Leopoldo Galtieri took the reins of the draconian military junta in 1981 but its power was unraveling: the economy was in recession, interest rates skyrocketed and protesters took to the streets of Buenos Aires. 

During the Guerra Sucia (“Dirty War”) the military regime that controlled Argentina from 1976 until 1983 covertly tortured and killed several thousand civilians in an attempt to purge the country of alleged left-wing radicals; one group in Buenos Aire, the Grandmothers and Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, called attention to the fates of their family members and other desaparecidos (disappeared persons) by holding weekly vigils on the square fronting the Casa Rosada. A year later, Galtieri tried to divert national attention by goading the UK into a war over control of the Falkland Islands, known in Argentina as Las Islas Malvinas. The British had more resolve than the junta had imagined and Argentina was easily defeated. The greatest blow came when the British nuclear submarine Conqueror torpedoed the Argentine heavy cruiser General Belgrano, killing 323 men. 

Embarrassed and proven ineffectual, the military regime fell apart and a new civilian government under Raúl Alfonsín took control in 1983. Alfonsín enjoyed a small amount of success and was able to negotiate a few international loans, but he could not limit inflation or constrain public spending. By 1989 inflation was out of control and Alfonsín left office five months early, when Carlos Menem took power.

21st Century

In the early 2000s Buenos Aires was greatly affected by Argentina’s faltering economy. In 2001 the country suffered a massive economic collapse after defaulting on its foreign debt payment. Inflation increased by 50 percent, and the unemployment rate in Buenos Aires reached an all time high. Porteños with savings accounts or investments lost significant amounts of money. Social services were cut and pension payments were delayed. Violent protests occurred in the city streets as porteños and others demonstrated their dissatisfaction with the government’s handling of the economy.

By 2004 Buenos Aires had recovered from the crisis, and its economy was booming again. Despite numerous obstacles at the beginning of the 21st century, Buenos Aires exhibited signs of social improvement and a burgeoning economy, especially in response to developments in technology and the city’s increasing globalization. Internet cafés have proliferated since the 1990s, demonstrating the city’s growing electronic connectivity to the rest of the world. Moreover, Buenos Aires has remained the cultural heart of Argentina, shaping much of the country’s identity through education, art, publishing, and locally produced television shows, advertising, radio programs, and movies.

Buenos Aires is the most visited city in South America, and for good reason. More than 400 years old, the city is famous for its outstanding cultural life and its European influenced architecture. That sensuous dance, the tango, was invented in Argentina, and Buenos Aires is a good place to take lessons or see it performed to perfection. An overview of the top tourist attractions in Buenos Aires.

1. Puerto Madero

Sleek buildings line the Rio de la Plata waterfront at Puerto Madero, the largest urban development project in the capital. Puerto Madero served as the main port of Buenos Aires during the late 19th century, but larger cargo ships soon made it obsolete. The port fell into decay until 1989 when it was decided to turn the aging warehouses into something grander: buildings that could be used as residences, restaurants, shops and other businesses. To give the project a bit of flair, all streets in the district were named after women. Strolling through the Puerto Madero is a great way to spend a pleasant afternoon.

2. Museo Nacional de Belles Artes

The National Museum of Fine Arts, located in the Recoleta district, earns high praise from visitors, some of whom have compared it to a mini Louvre because of its outstanding collection of European and Argentine artists. There are not too many places where people can see this art and for free. The museum opened in 1895 and moved to its present location, a renovated drainage pump station, in 1933. Its collection of fine art, the largest in Argentina, ranges from art in the Middle Ages to the 20th century.

3. Teatro Colon

Opened in 1908 with a performance of Verdi’s “Aïda,” the Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires was designed by a succession of architects, which may explain the structure’s eclectic style. With nearly 2,500 seats and standing room for 1,000 people, the Teatro Colón stood as the world’s largest opera house until the completion of the Sydney Opera House in 1973. It remains one of the top tourist attractions in Buenos Aires.

4. Carlos Thays Botanical Garden

Carlos Thays was a French landscape artist who came to Buenos Aires when he was 40 years old, and proceeded to change the face of the city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Under his supervision, a number of parks were developed and existing ones renovated. But the botanical garden was his pet project. Located in the Palermo district near the zoo, the botanical garden is home to more than 5,000 species of plants, many in organized displays and others not. Past visitors say the park is a great way to escape the capital’s hustle and bustle whether strolling winding paths or just sitting on a bench reading.

5. El Obelisco

El Obelisco is a much loved attraction that stands 68 meters (223 feet) high over the city. It was built in 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city, naming the city as the national capital and as the site where the Argentinean flag first flew. The flag actually first flew in 1812 at the church of St. Nicholas de Bari, which was demolished to build the obelisk. It reaches proudly into the sky where 9 de Julio Avenue intersects with Corrientes Avenue. Said to be the widest street in the world, 9 de Julio Avenue is named after the 1816 date on which Argentina declared its independence from Spain.

6. Cafe Tortoni

Travelers who collect dining experiences may want to visit Café Tortoni, Argentina’s oldest and most famous café. Started by a Frenchman in 1858 who modeled it after a Parisian café, the Tortoni remains a popular place to enjoy coffee or snacks with friends as well as hobnob with writers, painters and other artists. It is also a good place to see the tango performed on stage by professional dancers. Located on Avenida de Mayo, the Cafe Tortoni entices the hungry with sandwiches, steaks and desserts that look too good to eat.

7. Plaza Dorrego

Travelers who are in Buenos Aires on a Sunday will not want to miss the market at Plaza Dorrego, especially if they are in the market for antiques and curios. The Plaza Dorrego is one of the oldest public squares in Buenos Aires, getting its start as a market in the 18th century when farmers filled wagons with produce to sell to locals on Sundays. The present antiques market started in the early 1970s; visitors who can not make the Sunday market might enjoy the plaza’s surrounding area, as San Telmo is the capital’s antique district. Tired shoppers can rest at an outdoor café and watch tango dancers perform or even take a few lessons themselves.

8. Caminito

Caminito, which translates as “little street,” was not always a street. It was originally a stream; when the water dried up, railroad tracks were built on the dry bed. When the tracks were removed, it became a landfill. Today it is considered one of Buenos Aires’ most colorful streets. Located in the neighborhood of La Boca, the street is a good place to watch artists at work and view their completed works. It is also known for inspiring Juan de Dios Filiberto to write his famous tango, “Caminito.” Several museums also are located along the street.

9. Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery is not just an ordinary cemetery. It is where the elite of Buenos Aires and Argentina are buried, including the country’s former presidents, Eva Peron and even one of Napoleon’s granddaughters. Established in 1822, it contains more than 4,500 above ground vaults, of which 94 have been declared national historical monuments. The cemetery is a good place to view fantastic marble mausoleums and best statuary, sculpted by notable artists. The BBC called it one of the best cemeteries in the world while CNN ranked it among the world’s 10 prettiest cemeteries.

10. Plaza de Mayo

Starting from the 1810 revolution that led to independence, the Plaza de Mayo has been a focal point of political life in Argentina. Several of the city’s major landmarks are located around the Plaza including the Cabildo; the city council during the colonial era. Located in the center of the Plaza de Mayo is The May Pyramid, the oldest national monument in Buenos Aires. The plaza is also the square where the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo have congregated with signs and pictures of desaparecidos, their children, who were subject to forced disappearance by the military junta in the 1970s.

Puerto Madero

Museo Nacional de Belles Artes

Teatro Colon

Carlos Thays Botanical Garden

Carlos Thays Botanical Garden

El Obelisco

Cafe Tortoni

Plaza Dorrego

Recoleta Cemetery

Caminito

Plaza de Mayo

Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery

1. Empanadas

The most famous Argentine snack, appetizer, or meal, empanadas are plump bread packets full of meat, vegetables, or cheese. Highly addictive, they wash down perfectly with an ice cold beer. Popular flavors include beef, chicken, cheese and onion, humita (corn), or chorizo (pork). 

2. Bife de Chorizo

Argentina is known for beef and its strong asado (barbecue) culture. Bife de Chorizo is the king of meat cuts in Buenos Aires. Better known as “sirloin steak” in English, it arrives massive and juicy on your plate at parillas (the word for both grill and restaurant), with some fat around the edges for a little extra flavor. 

3. Dulce de Leche

Ubiquitous in Argentine desserts, dulce de leche is that gooey caramel-colored jam that tastes like mellow toffee, which overpowers your tastes buds in an avalanche of sugar. Made from slowly heating sweetened milk, dulce de leche can be eaten solo with only a spoon, or made into ice cream, hard candy, baked inside churros, found at the center of alfajores, used as a glue to hold cake layers together.

4. Vegetable Salad

The cuisine of Buenos Aires can be meat-centric, but in recent years it’s veered more and more into vegetarian terrain, with lots of creative offerings popping up in the city. This salad, both hot and cold, really has 25 vegetables in it. Raw baby beetroot leaves and purple lettuce get tossed in with steamed Brussel sprouts, and roasted nori. Babaganoush is smeared on the side and pesto drizzled atop, for a dish that will both confuse and delight your senses.

5. Pizza

Other than their meat, Argentines are most proud of their pizza. Usually more bready than other pizzas with a huge slathering of cheese, only a bit of tomato sauce, and a few whole green olives symmetrically placed atop, the best Argentine-style pizza is also the greasiest.

6. Tartas

Essentially a savory pie, tartas have a cream and egg base with vegetables. Typical flavors include squash, cheesy broccoli, and zucchini. Soft and fluffy inside with a firm crust outside, the two textures combine for a satisfying bite. A belly full of quality tarta makes you feel nourished and perfectly full as if you’ve just eaten in your grandma’s kitchen.

7. Choripan

Choripan is to Buenos Aires what hot dogs are to New York. Choripan, loving called “chori” by most portenos, those born and raised in Buenos Aires, is an Argentine chorizo sausage stuffed into a bun, generally served with chimichurri sauce on the side or heaped on top for a garlic and parsley kick. If you go to an asado, this will be on the grill, and if you see a soccer game, this will be the crowd’s food of choice.

8. Ice Cream

An influx of gelato homesick Italian immigrants started developing the ice cream scene in Buenos Aires in the 19th century. Today, Buenos Aires is regarded as a bastion of creamy goodness and National Geographic even named Cadore one of the top 10 ice cream parlors in the world.

 

 

Bife de Chorizo

Empanadas

Dulce de Leche

Vegetable Salad

Choripan

Ice Cream

Tartas

Pizza